Driving the Blue Ridge Parkway

“The idea is to fit the parkway into the mountains as if nature had put it there.” Stanley Abbott – Chief Landscape Architect of the Blue Ridge Parkway.

 

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Driving the Blue Ridge Parkway in a convertible wasn’t on my bucket list… that was an over site.

The Road

The Asheville area of North Carolina is a wealth of experiences. It has a little of everything: Architecture… The Biltmore (need I say more), Food… every single meal was amazing from braised short ribs with horseradish gnocchi at the Glass Onion to korean beef tacos from White Duck Taco,  Beer… (be still my vibrating liver) a fact about Asheville, every single person must have a craft brewery and they are doing great work highlights: Wicked Weed and Burial breweries were outstanding. Nature… whoa! Asheville is well endowed indeed, the oldest mountains in the world are Asheville’s backyard… Brilliant Art, culture, bookstores that are dog friendly and serve Champagne, great coffee, I could go on, but suffice to say Asheville is a great place to be.

Also in Asheville’s backyard, the Blue Ridge Parkway. With the promise of scenic views and good hiking it was something that shouldn’t be missed. So we made a plan: Blue Ridge Parkway Visitors Center to Crabtree Falls then back to Mount Mitchell before returning to base camp in Weaverville. We also had a twisty detour to Marion NC, more on that later.

Google Map

So we wanted to go on a hike and we would take the Blue Ridge Parkway to do it. Sounds great, but there was something that seemed like a handicap. We brought with us to North Carolina my Ford F-150 Super Crew Cab. It was great, we practically lived out of it on this road trip which took as far as Ocracoke Island (a pretty remote spot on the Outerbanks) and back. It was great for camping, however, it was all wrong for the Blue Ridge Parkway. Images filled my head of lumbering through corner after corner below the maximum speed limit of 45 until Rebecca vomited from the swaying. It wouldn’t do.

The Ride

We needed at least a car, it would be great if it was sporty, it would be better if it was a convertible. With some help from Rebecca’s stepfather we found this as a local airport rental:

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The stars aligned and we found a 2017 Mustang convertible.

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We picked it up early, packed a lunch, and headed up the mountain.

Bullet_Table (1 of 17)We got a great car. Usually not a convertible fan but, for the parkway it was ideal. The top down delivered the feeling of the world passing by us instead of the usual feeling of “canned” transportation. We appreciated that this was the best handling (base) mustang to date. It loved the twists and felt absolutely confident and precise. I assumed that this mustang would have a V-6 I was pleased to find this model had the 2.3L EcoBoost 4 pot. It pulled hard and made good noises. I particularly liked the turbo hiss when accelerating through one of the many tunnels on the parkway, made even better with the top down. The only driving mode I used was Sport+ and Sport steering, this should just be the default setting. Downshifting sooner and holding gears longer, sharpening throttle response, all of the stuff you want from your sports car.

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The views were spectacular and the driving was visceral. April traffic on the parkway was pretty minimal and no top allowed for soaking in every site the parkway had to offer, every noise the Mustang made, and big breathfuls of spring mountain air.

The Attraction

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The drive up to Crabtree Falls was like driving through the above time lapse. I would have sworn it only took a few minutes, as sights flowed through the windshield and past the tail lights. The drive was spectacular on its own but the short hike we took was like delicious natural icing on the cake.

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We took the strenuous 2.7 mile loop which was still short and worth it since we hiked back up hill next too a beautiful brook which fed the waterfall.

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A short hike but we were still a little winded at times and glad we wore our actually hiking boots. We also regretted wearing jeans.

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We spent a lot of time exploring and photographing the main attraction, the Crabtree Falls. It was beautiful and I don’t yet possess the writing talent to fully express the magic of the sounds and smells of a waterfall powered by a mountain stream. It makes me as happy as our dog is when he wades belly deep into the cold water and drinks until he can hold no more. If you go on this hike look for salamanders and trout in the stream. We saw both.

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We made it back to the car a long time after our normal lunch time. We were hungry and thirsty. We decided to go back to the last intersection we saw, State Route 80, and take that to Marion. We thought it would be an insignificant detour, we were wrong. That road to Marion had more turns than all of the roads in my home state of Illinois. That route took us right down the side of the mountain back and forth making the Blue Ridge Parkway look like a straight road. The views were excellent, like being tucked into the mountain. The driving was exhilarating and the Mustang soaked up every corner and loved the constant up and down the mountain roads provided.

While in Marion we topped off the car (4 gallons) and topped off our water supply, before putting the top back up for protection from a rain that lasted only as long as, the lunch we ate in the car in a Dollar General parking lot. With both the rain and lunch over we popped the top back down and began our ascent back up from the valley to the Blue Ridge Parkway to follow that to the peak of Mount Mitchell.

Back on the mountain road, Route 80, we soon caught up with a school bus. Somehow the speed limit was 45, which was incredible considering how tight and twisty the road was. The school bus turned around and out of the way I thought I would create some space between the local in the white Rav4 behind me. I drove sportily but still in my rearview, close behind, stayed the Rav4. So… I channeled all of my driving talent, seeing the corners pass like corners of a karting course. I could smell the Mustangs new brakes coming up to temp for the first time, as well as, the turbo charged engine creating enough heat to make the plastic engine covers have the new car smell. I pushed the Mustang and it didn’t fade either in brakes or engine power. Sounds impressive right… well I never got more than a couple of hundred feet ahead of the local in the Rav4 (only because the Mustang is significantly faster accelerating than a Rav4.) I assume this was a mom picking up their children from NASCAR practice.

Back on the Parkway and headed towards Mount Mitchell. The tallest US peak east of the Mississippi. We took our time and breathed in the now cooling mountain air and turned on a bit of heat to mix with the air buffeted by the windshield. We arrived just before the rain.

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And the views from the top of the eastern half of the United States are predictably good.

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Our last hike was 300 yards to the peak. Easier than our earlier hike, but about 20 degrees colder at 53, and with the rain that had threatened catching us near the top. We enjoyed the rainy view and saw the clouds make the characteristic smoke of the Smoky Mountains. It was good.

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We hurried back down in the rain and quickly popped the top back up on the rental Mustang and got some heat going. We were satisfied with our day. It was worthy of being on a bucket list for a car nut who loves nature. Ashamedly, it was not on any list for me. My ask for you is, if this sounds like something you might enjoy, please do it. Don’t wait, that’s kind of the thing I’m, preaching. This was an experience that I will treasure for my life. I shared it with my fiance and she loved it. We will always have this shared experience.

The expense for car rental and total gas bill from one of the major rental chains was less than $200 for the day. The Blue Ridge Parkway is within a few hours drive for half of the US ( about 10 hours for me.) Also the rental place is attached to the Asheville Regional Airport. Someone could fly into Asheville in the afternoon , Uber into downtown, eat at Tupelo Honey, then close down Wedge Brewery in the Arts district, pick up your rented convertible the next morning and spend the day driving in the Mountains. Sounds like a magnificent three day weekend. That is attainable for most folks old enough to rent a car.

The rain made us put the top back up. A silver lining in this cloud is it allowed me the opportunity for the drama shot.

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Still looks good with the top on.

Tips:

Pack food and water for your trip on the Parkway as there aren’t a ton of places to stock up close to the Parkway. Same goes for gas but, that’s kind of the point.

Maybe most importantly get your rental early. Call and confirm that they have it and tell them why you want it. This trip won’t be as good in an Escalade or Sonic. Make sure the rental company has a good car and that they are saving it for you to pick up early. (Thank you Craig! I wouldn’t have taken this step. Your world experience really paid off.)

http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/news/a27258/how-to-always-get-the-best-rental-car/

Forshadowing

This trip was a great time, but ultimately was a test for another attainable experience. The next trip will be longer and the Mustang will be badder. Check back sometime and see if I can make it happen.

Thanks for reading,

Clayton

No to Someday

The exercise of exercising action. Move towards your personal Mountains. Its easy to put dreams outside of the attainable because we have seen it practiced by most of the people around us. The people around you are wrong. Our lives are about living and nothing else. Know your Mountain and ask yourself everyday am I moving towards the Mountain? If too many days pass where the answer no. Its time to realign.

*Note these are not my original ideas. Just the ones I choose to include in my life.

**Second Note: This string of inspiration is based on the Neil Gaiman commencement speech. Which I could watch everday: Neil Gaiman Commencement Speech

Dreaming of Vienna

The bedside alarm clock flashes red, 0:30…Damn. I’ve been asleep for one and a half hours and my body just remembered that it has no f#&*ing idea why its night time out. My body is exhausted but the reptile brain is full tilt trying to figure out why the sun is not on the horizon. The bed in which I am wide awake is 5000 miles away from home and at back in Middle America its 5:30 and I should be arriving home from the salt mines of hospital IT.

However, I’m not in Middle America I’m enjoying my first international trip in Budapest Hungary and the past two nights I have slept like a baby after long days of new food and café leche fueled walkabouts in the most incredible city. But that doesn’t change the fact that my body is having my first experience with jet lag. In 3 and half hours I will be boarding a train for just the fourth country I have been to.

After a couple of hours I finally squeeze in 1 additional hour of sleep before the alarm goes off. Our destination Vienna Austria. This will be a literal dream come true for my partner Rebecca as we are going to see the spectacular dancing horses. The lipizaners of the Spanish Riding school are in Rebecca’s words: “The fantasy of every horse crazy girl and the pinnacle of communication between horse and rider. Simultaneously beautiful to the non-horse person and impressive to anyone who works with horses.” But first we have a longer than estimated 45 minute walk from the Budapest city center to the Keleti train station to catch a high speed train to Austria and there is a time crunch because there is a fair amount of walking and the horses we are going to see are tightly scheduled.

It’s September and Budapest at 4 o’clock in the morning is a bit brisk but excitement and haste to get there make the walk through the mostly dark and deserted streets of a different country one that I can still feel on my skin as I stand writing this (2 years later in my warm and cozy home.) We arrive crossing the road to the building that is recognizable as a train station to anyone no matter the country or signage.

Keleti is immense and the faces of many nations and many languages are mingled in the vast open space of the station. The open air was cool and in my Midwestern heart there was a thrill of exotic adventure and dreams realized that elicited goose bumps even in my warm jacket. It was beautiful and founded a love of train stations and a feeling of endless possibility in travel.

Just a few more hurdles to jump and we would be on our way to realizing dreams for both of us. Ahh buying tickets to and from a different country. Tickets written in a language (Hungarian) which when typed into goggle translate caused it to either give back jibberish or just outright refusal. We waited in a very short line to buy tickets a little less on time than we had hoped (see above 45 minute walk) but after a few minutes and a lot of pointing and explanation in English to the very patient Hungarian woman teller we had tickets to our destination. But wait will these bring us back? An important question since as far as we can tell we are allowed to move freely between Eurozone countries with the caveat that we must have return fare procured. Back in line to confirm that these tickets are two way tickets. Another wait but the teller seems to be assuring us that these are in fact two way tickets. We walk towards the train and I turn to Rebecca and see both uncertainty and overwhelming tiredness. I smile.

We board our train and start passing down the aisles of the empty looking for our seat. After, a bit of misunderstanding and explanation by some concerned German but English speaking tourists we figure out which seats are ok for last minute travelers to sit in.

We are moving out of the city now and into the countryside. Everything is calm and relaxing with one exception, we have found out that there are two train stations in Vienna and we don’t know which one to get off at. No problem we will use our smart phones to connect to the as advertised train wi-fi… no luck. We struggle with this for far longer than we should have. (Give us a break we are new to travelling and are both a little introverted.) Rebecca is anxious now and I’m frustrated. I resign to go get us drinks and pastries from the dining car. I make my way from car to car as we tear through the country side. I arrive at the dining car and the only thing more beautiful than the blond Austrian girl handing me an equally beautiful cup of Nescafe was the melodic sound of her English. Austrians for the most part spoke very precise clear English with a German accent. The train was alive with the sound of music. And that music told me not to worry that there was a problem with the internet on the Hungarian portion but once we were in Austria we would be able to access wi-fi and check our stop. I made a triumphant return back to my seat and the 21st century.

Hurdling through Hungary to our soon to be known destination. We gazed sleepily while snapping blurred pictures of small town life and corn fields at 80 miles per hour, 5000 miles away from the equivalent back in Illinois. We also saw another country Slovenia across an expansive lake. Thanks to google we soon had our destination Vienna’s West Bahnhoff from there we had another long (45 minute) walk to Spanische Hofreitschule (Spanish Riding School.)

We started immediately hurrying down the busy shopping street past fashionable Europeans in light jackets and teens in hoodies. We made our way past the shops towards the beautiful old world buildings and through squares which guidebooks would spend paragraphs describing and were waiting in line on location just outside of the Riding Schoo. It was not a let down.

We stood just outside the entrance in line underneath an alcove which had received carriages carrying nobles for the past three or four centuries. The heavy beams where the horses were tied would prove it with deep troughs in them where bored horses had chewed the wood. Once inside we procured our tickets and made our way to the main stage. The balcony just above which the men and their horses were already performing (technically practicing.) We quietly found one of very few open seats on the wooden benches above the arena and settled in. It was quiet with just the sound of the uptempo classical music piped in over hidden speakers and the horses heavy breath on the down beat of their trot. It was still cool and my jacket felt good.

We made it in just enough time to grab tickets and find seats among the crowd. The event we were witnessing was actually a practice which Rebecca specifically wanted to see.

In Rebecca’s more informed words:

“The Spanish Riding School and their Lipizzaners are famous for performing dramatic “airs above the ground.” In the “airs,” a 1200lb animal obediently stands on its hind legs and then launches itself and the 140lb or so human into the air, landing with grace and control. The grace and control is key because a mistake could send the animal to the ground on top of its rider. This is what people have been flocking to see for centuries. This is not what we came to see.

Before a horse and rider can contemplate hurtling vertically through the air, they must spend years training together and learning to trust one another. They spend years doing mundane riding activities like trotting a circle to build the muscle, obedience, and trust necessary to try something more dangerous. This is what I wanted to see. I wanted to see the foundation being laid because I wanted to understand what kind of horses and humans find themselves at the Spanish Riding School. Outside of a polished performance you can see the personalities of each individual and the techniques each rider uses to work with their assigned mount.

What I saw surprised me. Lipizzaners are rotund creatures, so it would come as no surprise that they do not like to miss their meals. But, the riders and trainers at the Spanish Riding School had harnessed their mounts’ love of eating. When an animal performed something particularly well, whether that is one of the “airs” or simply trotting a very nice circle, the rider stops the horse and feeds it a sugar cube. And the horses seem to feel genuinely motivated.

In America, many of the horse breeds have been selected for “quietness.” They are predictable (for a horse) and unafraid, but they also tend not to be very motivated. The Lipizzaners want to work and they want to work well.

Later we took a tour of the barns. Some of the stallions (they are all stallions) greeted us eagerly with their heads hanging over their stall doors. Others were resting from the morning’s workout. Some were even lying flat out on their sides in deep sleep. Throughout the tour it was clear that the Spanish Riding School prioritizes individuality from its stallions. Some are bedded on straw and some on shavings, depending on their needs. Some kept away from the tours. Some have windows. None are stalled near a horse they do not like.

The “airs” are a rare feat today and are impressive to equestrians and non-equestrians alike. But, the feat that most impressed me is the Spanish Riding School’s ability to keep about 20 stallions happy, healthy, and well schooled in the middle of an industrialized modern city. And to remind non-equestrians of the close history horses and humans have shared.”

Well said Rebecca. To be continued…